August 11th, 2021

Diffused Soft Glam Smokey Eye With Cream Shadows

I recently attended a webinar class for Bobby Brown Cosmetics. I walked away from that class with the impression that eye makeup does not have to be a complicated process, and with the knowledge on how to accomplish this glamourous, effortless makeup look.

Bobby Brown designed her Longwear Cream Shadow Sticks to rim, line, define, or highlight with buildable shades that enhance every skin tone, eye shape, and look. I have tried them and have found that they have a pigmented color payoff and they are extremely easy to apply and blend.

But not everyone has $90.00 laying around for 3 shadow sticks, and the answer to this is with Kiko Milano Long Lasting Stick Eye Shadow. Many years ago, Italian based Kiko Milano launched their cream shadow with the makeup community embracing the cream shadow line as a “cult classic”. Sold at $9.50 each, it’s a third of the price of Bobby Brown’s Long-Wear Cream Sticks.

I found that both companies boasted of pigmented color payoff, 8 hour wear and smudge proof results. When testing both lines, I was impressed with both, finding that the Bobby Brown line applied and blended slightly smoother than the Kiko Milano line.

Another thing to consider is the lack of matte choices for Kiko Milano. At the time of this article, I could only find 1 matte shade, with the rest of the entire line being shimmer. This is not great news for those who have mature skin with crepe in the eye lids. In this case, I would suggest Bobby Brown’s line. Shimmer shadows bring attention to crepe and texture on the lid, and generally any makeup artist would advise against it or use sparingly.

For those who do have crepe or texture in the eye lids, the key is to limit shimmers in only the firmest part of the eye. A little shimmer adds definition and glow.

Bobby Brown Long-Wear Cream Shadow Stick $30.00 each

  • Truffle Creamy Beige (shimmer)
  • Bone– Pale Yellow (matte)
  • Vanilla– Warm Cream (matte)
  • Shore– Cool Toned Beige (matte)
  • Sand Dune– Medium Beige Tan (matte)
  • Taupe– Medium Caramel (matte)
  • Golden Bronze– Deep Bronze Sugar (shimmer)
  • Bark Rich Brown (matte)

Kiko Milano Long Lasting Stick Eye Shadow $9.50 each

  • White Matte(matte)
  • Holo White– (shimmer)
  • Ivory– (shimmer)
  • Cool Gold (shimmer)
  • Golden Beige (shimmer)
  • Golden Brown(shimmer)
  • Golden Chocolate (shimmer)

Just like every eye shape is unique, so is skin tone. Both Bobby Brown and Kiko Milano have a large variety of colors to choose from. Ideally, choose 3 colors with a light, medium and deep that compliment your skin tone.

Not every eye shape is the same, but I find this diagram helpful for explaining placement by eye area.

How To Do A Diffused Smokey Eye With Cream Shadows

Take the lighter color that is close to your natural skin tone and apply to cover from the base of the lid at the lash line to the brow bone under your brow. Blend in so it covers all of your eye lid, this will act as a base neutralizing and color correcting your lid. Use a brush that has full dense bristles, making it easy to blend out thicker products like the Zoeva petit eye blender 223 brush.

Photo Credit Zoeva

On the base of your lash line, apply your medium brown blending in to the crease. Apply this same color to the lower lash line and blend. Go in with an angled eye shadow brush like Zoeva’s 235 and contour; blending in and defining.

Photo Credit Zoeva

On the lash line, apply the darker color, pull in the corner in almost like a winged liner using a winged eye liner brush like the Zoeva 317. This will bring out the shape of your eye and slightly lift. Gently blend this in. Add more of the darker color to the lower lash line and blend in, to add more definition.

Photo Credit Zoeva

Add mascara and false lashes.

Pro Tip: Be careful in your false lash choice, as this is a diffused subtle look. Choose lashes that enhance without over powering your diffused makeup look. The Ardell Natural 174 lash is an excellent example of this.

When attending the webinar, our instructor stressed that it is ok to not be perfect with this look as long as everything is layered and blended in.

I also find that this is a fantastic no nonsense glam look for those who have mature skin and hooded eyes. Its easy to replicate the look with only 3 brushes and 3 shadows.