February 23rd, 2022

Skincare Cheat Sheet By Age

Save Money On Skin Care Products

As a licensed Aesthetician, I have a variety of clients whom I adore, some are blessed with money and some are not. The common factor when it comes to recommending home care in this is one of my mantras that I strictly adhere to. Which is : I sell the client what they need rather than what the client wants to buy AND Homecare should be 80% of the skincare work.

What does that even mean? It means that I refuse to stand in front of a client after services and point out $500.00 worth of items to a 19 year old and tell them that if they want healthy skin, they must buy these products. I do not make claims that I know my retail products can not back, and I work with the client to help them achieve their skin care goals on the budget they have. This also means that during their time in the spa with me, I teach them how to effectively take care of their skin at home to prolong and maintain good glowy skin health.  

Today’s blog is all about this concept, and where in your skin care routine should you be spending your most money on. I’m going to stress this until my last breath, SPF first for everything is a given. Prevention is key. So when you are reading the section per age group on where to concentrate your money, keep in mind SPF is always your first line of defense.

It was difficult to write this blog because everyone’s skin condition and skincare goals are different. If you have questions, please call the spa or speak with your skincare specialist to assist with your skincare routine. For all intensive purposes this is a general outline and should be treated as such.

General Money Saving Tips

  1. Stop watching Instagram and Youtube influencer tutorials and dripping products on your face. You are wasting product. Rule of thumb for cleansers is a dime sized amount or 1 pump, two to three spritzes for toner, an quarter size drop for moisturizer, 3-4 drops in a dropper for serums, and ½ teaspoon for SPF coverage of face and neck.
  2. Put Your Money Where It Counts. Professional products have concentrated ingredients. No judgment on your store brought brand, but if your looking for professional results, go with the products that have higher concentrations of active ingredients. I retail 6.4 oz cleansers that last 3 months when used properly. If my sensitive skin cleanser cost $36.50, then broken down by week, the cost for that client to wash their face (twice a day) per week is $3.04. They are getting a professional strength product for $3.04 a week for 12 week investment.
  3. Buy what you need and not what you want. It seems like 2021 was a year for gimicky skin care as well as individual ingredient products. Celeb Skin Care was a cash grab with sub-par products. I have nothing against trying new products, but if your looking for results and something to incorporate into a goal driven skincare routine, put your money on products that are proven and tested. I don’t honestly see Celebs stopping this cash grab, readers please do your research on ingredients.
  4. Sheet Masks are fun and relaxing. They commonly contain concentrated ampules, serums and lotions and depending on your skin care needs there is a large variety on the market. I would recommend using a sheet mask no more than once a week. Especially if you are already incorporating a serum and moisturizer in your daily skin care routine.  

Teens to 19 Years

Skin during these years are at peak with collagen and elastin, but prone to blemishes, hormonal acne, and excess oil.

Teens should be learning skin care basics which include double cleanse with a cleanser, toner, moisturizer and SPF. Once per week, exfoliate the skin with a gentle exfoliant. Unless you have specific skin care concerns, those skin care products are all you need until age 20.

Routine Notes:  

  1. Double Cleanse with a Facial Cleanser-(Morning & Night) During this age period, its common to have blemishes. A gentle cleanser with mild Salicylic Acid is recommended for acne prone skin.  
  2. Toner-(Morning & Night)  Tone skin to assist in balancing the skin’s pH level. Toning skin also helps remove any oil or dirt after cleansing.
  3. Moisturizer-(Morning & Night)  Choices can be confusing depending on your needs, there is a lot of crossover with acne and anti-aging products as Retinol moisturizers can help with acne while aiding in skin repair. Moisturizers with humectants such as Hyaluronic Acid may be a good choice, as it does not cause breakouts and plumps fine lines while assisting the skin retain moisture. Because the skin at this time can be oily, try to find an oil free moisturizer. For sensitive skin, moisturizers rich with omega fatty acids like safflower oils are high in linoleic acid, which help the skin barrier and helps the skin retain moisture but does not tend to inflame or irritate acne-prone skin. Moisturizers during the winter should be heavier than the summer.
  4. Wear SPF 30+ Daily-(Morning)  Exposure to the sun’s UV rays causes damage and premature aging. This age period is a great start to practicing wearing SPF daily and reapplying as recommended during sun exposure.

Age Group Products To Add On:

For blemishes, a spot treatment with benzoyl peroxide is recommended. I may prescribe my clients Lira Clinical ICE Clear Stick, formulated with benzoyl peroxide, probotics, and peptides.

Once a week exfoliate skin. I may prescribe my clients Lira Clinical ICE Clarifying Scrub. It has benzoyl peroxide to treat acne while soothing redness and irritation with lilac and echinacea plant stem cells. If they have roscesea or melasma, I may prescribe them Hale & Hush Refine Polish, which is a gentle skin polisher with probiotics and peptides.

For complete sun protection, Lip SPF.  I offer my clients Skin Script Rx’s lip balm with SPF 15 or Lira Clinical’s Lip Balm with SPF 15.

What should I spend most of my money on?

Moisturizers.

20 to 34 Years

By age 20-ish, our skin care goals have switched from from anti-blemish and oil control to prevention and maintenance. The exception to this is cystic acne which may present itself in our 30’s cause by hormonal changes.

It’s estimated that 1% less collagen is produced in the dermis each year after age 20. Its also during this time when our skin’s natural exfoliation process decreases by 28%. In fact, by age 30 the average time your skin takes to naturally exfoliate is 28 days. Skin cells build up causing skin to have a dull appearance. The decrease in cell turnover affects the ability for the skin to retain moisture from skin cell build up. Hyaluronic Acid is a natural component in the skin that binds water, during this age group a good moisturizer with such a hydrating ingredient will assist with fine lines. Niacinamide is also another ingredient that will assist with lipid barrier and allow the skin to better retain moisture.

Routine Notes:  

  1. Double Cleanse with a Facial Cleanser-(Morning & Night) During this age period, we may find cleansing twice a day leaves our face dry. If this is the case, the facial cleansers you are using from your teens, may be to harsh for your 20’s and above because there is less oil production. In this event, I may choose to prescribe my client’s Hale & Hush Quiet Wash, which is gentle and even oncology approved. Another cleanser I may choose would be Lira Clinical’s Mystiq iLuminating Cleanser which is a gentle creamy cleanser that is soothing, hydrating and brightening.
  2. Toner-(Morning & Night)  Tone skin to assist in balancing the skin’s pH level. Toning skin also helps remove any oil or dirt after cleansing.
  3. Antioxidant Vitamin C Serums can help reduce UV damage and assist in collagen production. Another serum can be a topical retinol or a vitamin A derivative retinol serum, these are backed by varies studies and have been proven with anti-aging benefits, promotes collagen production, evens skin tone, diminishes fine lines, and assists in healing acne.
  • Moisturizer-(Morning)  moisturizers aid in skin barrier recovery, restore the acid mantle, help skin retain moisture. There are several moisturizers on the market that have AHA’s or Alpha Hydroxy Acids which will assist in cell turnover and moisture retention. For sensitive skin, I may prescribe a moisturizer with a polyhydroxy acid which can include gluconolactone, galactose and lactobionic acid.
  • Eye Cream- (Morning & Night) Depending on needs, I may prescribe Mystiq Perfecting Eye Crème, a multi-tasker with peptides and plant stem cells or Eye Mousse from Hale and Hush that has antioxidants and peptides. If you use a retinol eye cream, save this for night and use an eye cream with antioxidants during the day.
  • Wear SPF 30+ Daily-(Morning)  Exposure to the sun’s UV rays causes damage and premature aging.

Be careful choosing collagen night creams as most on the market contain collagen molecules which are too large to be absorbed in the skin. Instead choose a night cream that has hydrolyzed collagen. Hydrolyzed collagen is collagen that has been broken down into small chains of amino acids which are called peptides. Peptides are easily absorbed into skin and support collagen production. Another option is products with plant stem cells. Some plant stem cells have been shown in studies to have ideal anti-aging properties.

Age Group Products To Add On:  

Twice to three times a week, exfoliate skin. Depending on your skin care needs, this may be through facial cleansers that have glycolic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid, niacinamide, mandelic acid, ect. Or through manual exfoliation by facial brushes like a clarisonic. Or through physical exfoliation like a gentle facial scrub.

For complete sun protection, Lip SPF.  I offer my clients Skin Script Rx’s lip balm with SPF 15 or Lira Clinical’s Lip Balm with SPF 15.

Rethink Diet, Lifestyle and Sleep Habits. I know this is not something normally talked about in the skin care world in detail. We are skin care professionals and are not licensed or educated to speak about individual diet plans, we are not life coaches, or a somnologist (sleep disorder specialist). Many studies have been done and has proven that diet, lifestyle and sleep habits effect the conditions of our skin. If you are a smoker, stop now. Smoking causes skin to become hardened and less elastic leading to premature aging. Toxins in cigarette smoke damage collagen and elastin. See a licensed health care professional and discuss how you can make changes that will impact your health in a positive way.

Regular Facials.  Its after age 20, that your skin needs start to rapidly change and will skin care goals continue to change. As you meet some of your skin care goals for overall skin health, some of the products or parts of your treatment plan your using in your routine will no longer be needed.

What should I spend Most of My Money On? 

Moisturizers and Serums. Try to start with a regular facial treatments, if not monthly, at least every 3 months so a licensed skincare professional can guide you through changed in your skin, and help you meet skincare goals

Pro Tip:

At this age group, incorporate facial massage into your nightly routine. When applying your moisturizer:

●Start at the décolleté and using an upward sweeping motion, massage up the décolleté, neck and jowls.

●Continue up massaging in moisturizer from lower jaw / jowls upward to earlobe. Then from lips upward to cheek bones.

●Carefully, because the area around the eye is delicate, sweep across the top of the cheek bones inward, up the bridge of the nose and around the eyebrow area out

●Massage moisturizer from the bridge of the nose out

●Finish massaging the moisturizer on the forehead in upward sweeping motions

This technique promotes blood flow to bring nutrients and oxygen to nourish skin, tones facial muscles, and improves product absorption.

35 to 49 Years

As we transition from our 30’s to 40’s our skin starts to produce less oil, our bone structure and fat cells start to shrink, collagen production has reduced significantly, elastin fibers are losing their elasticity, and moisture from the dermis to the epidermis is slowed. The amount of changes during this time to catch up off guard.

You may notice during this age group we start to see fine lines and wrinkles, dull skin, hyperpigmentation from sun exposure, uneven skin tone and our skin is more susceptible to skin irritations.

Routine Notes:  

  1. Double Cleanse with a Facial Cleanser-(Morning & Night) During this age period, you notice major changes in the firmness of your skin. There is a loss of volume and elasticity (leading to skin that appears saggy), as well as more pronounced wrinkles and sun damage, which may lead to conditions like melasma.
  2. Toner-(Morning & Night)  Tone skin to assist in balancing the skin’s pH level. Toning skin also helps remove any oil or dirt after cleansing.
  3. Serums- (Morning & Night)  Antioxidant Vitamin C Serums can help reduce UV damage and assist in collagen production. Another serum can be a topical retinol or a vitamin A derivative retinol serum, these are backed by varies studies and have been proven with anti-aging benefits, promotes collagen production, evens skin tone, diminishes fine lines, and assists in healing acne.
  4. Eye Cream- (Morning & Night) Depending on needs, I may prescribe Mystiq Perfecting Eye Crème, a multi-tasker with peptides and plant stem cells or Eye Mousse from Hale and Hush that has antioxidants and peptides. If you use a retinol eye cream, save this for night and use an eye cream with antioxidants during the day.
  5. Moisturizer-(Morning & Night)  Keeping with using retinols in the evening, use a moisturizer that has Vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, niacinamides, and other hydrating ingredients during the day and reparative ingredients like retinols in the evening. Remember, your body repairs when you sleep, that means your skin too.
  6. Wear SPF 30+ Daily-(Morning)  Exposure to the sun’s UV rays causes damage and premature aging.
  7. Dedicated Night Cream- (Night) Be careful choosing collagen night creams as most on the market contain collagen molecules which are too large to be absorbed in the skin. Instead choose a night cream that has hydrolyzed collagen. Hydrolyzed collagen is collagen that has been broken down into small chains of amino acids which are called peptides. Peptides are easily absorbed into skin and support collagen production. Another option is products with plant stem cells. Some plant stem cells have been shown in studies to have ideal anti-aging properties.

Age Group Products To Add On:

Twice to three times a week, exfoliate skin. Depending on your skin care needs, this may be through facial cleansers that have glycolic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid, niacinamide, mandelic acid, ect. Or through manual exfoliation by facial brushes like a clarisonic. Or through physical exfoliation like a gentle facial scrub.

For complete sun protection, Lip SPF.  I offer my clients Skin Script Rx’s lip balm with SPF 15 or Lira Clinical’s Lip Balm with SPF 15.

What should I spend Most of My Money On? 

Serums, Moisturizers and Monthly Facials / Start with Advanced Corrective Treatments such as peels, dermaplaning, microcurrent, collagen induction therapy, and fillers

Pro Tip:

Continue with the facial massage technique from above. This technique promotes blood flow to bring nutrients and oxygen to nourish skin, tones facial muscles, and improves product absorption.

50 Years and Above

 Finally, in our fifties and above, the skin becomes dry and is easily bruised as the sebaceous glands (which produce oil) have decreased in size. In women, menopause also decreases estrogen levels, leaving the skin drier and less toned. With the loss of collagen and elastin in the dermis the results are wrinkles and fine lines.

This time of our lives is all about skin rejuvenation and maintenance. There are many small things like a bedroom humidifier that can make subtle changes that add up to exceptionally healthy skin conditions. Because at this age, our skin becomes thinner and more fragile, so retaining moisture is a concern. When it comes to ingredients, you’ll want an emollient such as ceramides, which are the glue that keeps all the surface cells together. Next, you’ll want a humectant like hyaluronic acid or glycerin, which help bind water to the skin.

Routine Notes:  

  1. Double Cleanse with a Facial Cleanser-(Morning & Night) During this age period,
  2. Toner-(Morning & Night)  Tone skin to assist in balancing the skin’s pH level. Toning skin also helps remove any oil or dirt after cleansing.
  3. Moisturizer-(Morning & Night)  Keeping with using retinols in the evening, use a moisturizer that has Vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, niacinamides, and other hydrating ingredients during the day and reparative ingredients like retinols in the evening. Remember, your body repairs when you sleep, that means your skin too.
  4. Eye Cream- (Morning & Night) Depending on needs, I may prescribe Mystiq Perfecting Eye Crème, a multi-tasker with peptides and plant stem cells or Eye Mousse from Hale and Hush that has antioxidants and peptides. If you use a retinol eye cream, save this for night and use an eye cream with antioxidants during the day.
  5. Wear SPF 30+ Daily-(Morning)  Exposure to the sun’s UV rays causes damage and premature aging.

Age Group Products To Add On:

Twice to three times a week, exfoliate skin. Depending on your skin care needs, this may be through facial cleansers that have glycolic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid, niacinamide, mandelic acid, ect. Or through manual exfoliation by facial brushes like a clarisonic. Or through physical exfoliation like a gentle facial scrub.

For complete sun protection, Lip SPF.  I offer my clients Skin Script Rx’s lip balm with SPF 15 or Lira Clinical’s Lip Balm with SPF 15.

What should I spend Most of My Money On? 

Advanced Corrective Treatments such as peels, dermaplaning, microcurrent, collagen induction therapy, and fillers

Pro Tip:

Continue with the facial massage technique from above. This technique promotes blood flow to bring nutrients and oxygen to nourish skin, tones facial muscles, and improves product absorption.