February 22nd, 2023
Acetyl Hexapeptide-49, The Unsung Peptide Hero And All It’s Friends
Peptides are not new the to the skincare formulation world. They have been part of skincare technology since the 1970’s. Peptides are part of our natural biology, a peptide is a short chain of amino acids, and the building block of protein.
We categorize peptides in many ways with a “dipeptide” made of two amino acids, a “tripeptide” made of three amino acids, a “pentapeptide” made of five amino acids, and a “hexapeptide” made of six amino acids and so forth. There are four types of peptides, they have different functions and purposes vary.
Signal Peptides- Peptides such as Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 and Palmitoyl Oligopeptide are common signal peptides found in anti-aging skincare products. These will assist in stimulating production of collagen and elastin in the skin, resulting in firmer skin with improved elasticity.
Enzyme Inhibitor Peptides- These peptides hinder or slow down the activity of enzymes in the body which degrade structural proteins like collagen. Rice derived peptides can assist in retaining collagen, while soy-derived peptides can help slow down melanin production by melanocytes.
Neuropeptides- Can mimic Botox effects temporarily. Limited the facial muscles contractions for an improved appearance of expression lines, fine lines and wrinkles. Neuropeptides inhibit acetylcholine – the chemical that activates muscle movements.
Carrier Peptides- Peptides such as copper peptides are considered carrier peptides, as they deliver essential minerals such as copper and magnesium to the skin. Copper peptides can improve the production of collagen, and lighten hyperpigmentation. Carrier peptides are often found in rejuvenating skincare products, hyperpigmentation focused skincare products and in wound healing creams. (1), (2)
There are many different peptides in skincare product formulations, but for today we are only going to be discussing Acetyl Hexapeptide-49 and peptides that are in the same category; ones that have anti-inflammatory or anti-allergic effects. Interestingly enough, Acetyl Hexapeptide-49 is not classified in any of the 4 classifications like the others are.
Enter The Unsung Peptide Hero
Because I specialize in oncology and autoimmune within the scope of skincare, Acetyl Hexapeptide-49 is one of my most favorite peptides I like to see in formulations. It’s extremely versatile even if it’s not a popular ingredient like Hyaluronic Acid or Retinol. Many times my clients have conditions with inflammation such as Rosacea, Psoriasis, Eczema, sensitized skin from oncology treatments and more. All of these have inflammation in common.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-49 regulates the activity of the PAR-2 receptor, which modulates inflammatory responses. In our skin, you can find PAR-2 in the stratum granulosum layer of the epidermal keratinocytes.
This peptide soothes neurogenic inflammation by assisting in regulating activity in the PAR-2 receptor. By doing so, it helps calm itch in extremely sensitive or sensitized skin. This can be especially helpful for those who has disorders that cause the skin to be sensitized or itch such as Rosacea, Eczema or Psoriasis. Itchy skin, also known as pruritus, can be a side effect for my oncology clients who are receiving immunotherapy, chemotherapy or radiation treatments and this ingredient can give their skin some relief.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-49 improves the proliferation (cell division) and differentiation (immature cells become mature cells with specific functions) of cells and helps repair the skin barrier and restore tissue integrity.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-49 is also known to have a moisturizing effect, assisting in increasing the water content of the skin. A study on this peptide was made with a manufacturer, Delisens, and it found that after one week, subjects stated they had increased hydration (+34% in 1 week)
- Acetyl Tetrapeptide-15
The peptide soothes sensitive skin, normalizes its tolerance threshold for environmental stressors and reduces skin’s tendency to react to skincare in inadequate, irritated ways. It decreases the excitability of the nerve endings in the skin.
- Acetyl Dipeptide-3 Aminohexanoate
The peptide reinforces skin’s immune system and health. It supports skin’s direct defenses as the border with outer environment and lowers its proneness to infections.
- Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8
The biomimetic peptide is derived from a neuromediator that has soothing and calming effects on skin stressed by UV rays, immune reactions or mechanical factors. It helps to normalize skin’s sensitivity threshold.
- Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
With its reinforcing effect on skin’s tolerance to environmental stressors, the peptide soothes skin tensions contributing to the formation of expression lines and wrinkles. By regulating the reaction to adverse stimuli, it supports skin’s relaxation and well-being. In addition, it boosts the synthesis of elastic fibers.
- Acetyl Tetrapeptide-33
This peptide inhibits inflammatory reactions by reducing the release of the interleukins IL-6 and IL-8 triggered by overactivation of the antimicrobial peptide LL-37. It reduced cell damages and the destructive effects of inflammatory processes.
(Source: “Topical Peptide Treatments with Effective Anti-Aging Results,” Cosmetics, May 22, 2017)
Acetyl Hexapeptide-3 (Argireline): A neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptide found to reduce wrinkle depth with a Botox-like effect.
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9/11 (Dermican): A signal peptide reported to stimulate collagen type I and keratinocyte cell growth for thicker, firmer skin.
Carnosine: A signaling dipeptide and well- documented aqueous antioxidant with wound healing activity.
Copper Tripeptide (GHK-Cu): One of the most well-examined carrier peptides, found to regenerate and heal skin and other tissues.
Hexapeptide-11: A signal peptide found to improve elasticity after a twice-daily application for four weeks.
Hexapeptide-14: A signal peptide that stimulates cell migration, collagen synthesis and fibroblast proliferation, reducing fine lines and wrinkles.
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl): One of the most widely used signal peptides, found to boost the production of elastin and collagen for an improvement in roughness and wrinkles.
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (Rigin): A signal peptide that provides anti-inflammatory benefits after exposure to UVB rays, with wrinkle reduction documented after six months.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1: A signal peptide (also called pal-GHK and palmitoyl oligopeptide) for collagen renewal, comparable to retinoic acid but without causing irritation.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-3/5: A signaling peptide that boosts collagen synthesis and decreases collagen breakdown for an improvement in wrinkles and texture.
Pentapeptide-3 (Vialox): A neurotransmitter- inhibiting peptide derived from snake venom that reduced wrinkles and roughness after 28 days.
Pentapeptide-18 (Leuphasyl):
A neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptide that reduces fine lines, moisturizes, improves firmness and tone, and extends the effects of Botox.
Tetrapeptide-21: Also called GEKG, a signal peptide that increases collagen, hyaluronic acid and fibronectin to improve skin texture.
Tetrapeptide PKEK: A skin-lightening signal peptide that reduces UVB-induced pigmentation.
Tripeptide-10 Citrulline (Decorinyl): A signaling tetrapeptide that specifically targets collagen fiber organization.
Research & References:
https://www.ulprospector.com/knowledge/4715/pcc-five-types-of-skin-repairing-peptides
https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/10/4/111
- https://www.ulprospector.com/en/na/PersonalCare/Detail/5738/3132407/SpecPed-AH49P-Acetyl-Hexapeptide-49
- https://www.lubrizol.com/Personal-Care/Products/Product-Finder/Products-Data/Delisens-peptide-solution#