October 6th, 2022

Avalon Announces A New Peel Treatment!

A TCA & Jessners Peel Alternative

There is a new peel on the market from Lira Clinical and this peel is sure to change the way we navigate corrective skincare. Long gone are the days when just one acid was applied in layers. For true corrective skincare, Lira Clinical’s smart peel system uses blends of acids to treat multiple skin concerns. This is a perfect solution for those who want instant results from advanced treatments without downtime.

The Pure Peel  

• is as safe as an enzyme
• is water soluble like an Alpha Hydroxy Acid
• provides access into the skin like a Beta Hydroxy Acid
• is related to TCA without the 3(tri) chlorine(chlor) molecules
• provides results similar to Jessners without the consequential downtime

Acetic Acid has antibacterial and antifungal properties and is a AHA (alpha hydroxy acid). This acid is a byproduct of fermentation, which gives vinegar its characteristic odor. Pure acetic acid contains only traces of water and is known as glacial acetic acid.

This acid is in the same family which includes glycolic, lactic, mandelic, malic and tartaric acids, the gold standard ingredients for brightening and evening out skin tone.

Acetic acid has even been known to be in applications for topical management of striae distensae (stretch marks). Another benefit of this acid has the ability to stimulate the skin without initiating inflammation.

Mandelic Acid, known for it’s gentleness, is another alpha hydroxy acid derived from bitter almonds. Benefits include reduction of grades 1 and 2 acne, improvement of uneven skin tone, and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. This acid has minimal irritation and inflammation to the skin due to it’s 8-carbon chain size.

A 2019 study found that mandelic acid may have an edge over salicylic acid when treating inflammatory acne (papules and pustules) This study concluded that a chemical peel with 45 percent mandelic acid was equally effective as a chemical peel with 30 percent salicylic acid in mild to moderate acne. (1) Another study done in 1999 found that mandelic acid may reduce hyperpigmentation in melasma by as much as 50 percent in about 4 weeks. (2)

Lactic Acid is actually derived from a byproduct of the bacterial fermentation of sugar, working as an exfoliator, loosening the bonds between dead skin cells to reveal and renew the complexion. Because of this, the benefits include smoother skin, brightening dullness and reduction of fine lines, wrinkles and hyperpigmentation.

One of the mildest forms of alpha hydroxy acids, this form is an effective antimicrobial and has a slightly larger molecule size than that of glycolic acid.

Salicylic Acid is well known for deep cleansing pores and exfoliating. This beta hydroxy acid is derived from willow bark and the hydroxy part of the molecule is separated from the acid part by two carbon atoms. This structure is important because it makes salicylic acid more oil-soluble, assisting in deeper penetration into the pores of the skin. Its a delivery system that can effectively treat blackheads and clear congestion. This acid also has analgesic, astringent and anti-microbial benefits.

Fermented Jasmonic Acid is not a well studied acid, however the studies that have been done have concluded that there are anti-aging, improvement of skin elasticity and skin wound healing benefits. This is exceptionally helpful for those suffering from grades 1 and 2 acne. (3) This acid also provides natural Omega-3 fatty acids to the skin.

Phytic Acid is a mild AHA, alpha hydroxy acid used for exfoliation, promoting cell turnover and brightening of skin complexion. This acid is derived from grains, nuts, rice and legumes.

Studies have shown that a combination of glycolic acid and phytic acid work well to improve overall skin tone. (4) This acid is known for deep cleaning pores with blackheads and congestion, as well as improving the appearance of larger pores and treatment of hyperpigmentation such as the skin condition Melasma. It has antioxidant value and provides anti-inflammatory effects.

So looking at the actives, we see that two of the acids are fermented, and part of that fermentation process breaks down the composition of ingredients (such as vitamins, minerals, and amino acids) into smaller molecules, which your skin can more readily absorb. The BHA, oil-soluble salicylic acid which can penetrate deeper into the pores, is also something to note with how this delivery system of actives is blended. Several of the acids have exfoliating and brightening properties, and several have anti-aging benefits. For those with grades 1 and 2 acne, the skin healing, antibacterial and anti-microbial benefits are extremely beneficial.

In addition to this, Lira Clinical also includes their MASQ-techTM technology which assists in prevention of post inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), assists in reducing pore appearance, and encourages cell proliferation.

This peel treatment addresses

Grades 1 and 2 Acne

Hyperpigmentation

Dull Skin

Aging Skin

Fine Lines & Wrinkles

Why This Peel Is Different Than TCA & Jessners Peels

TCA peels (an analog of acetic acid), also known as trichloracetic acid, exfoliate the top layer of skin over the course of several days. This peel is typically used to treat acne scars, reducing fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation such as skin conditions like Melasma, and scars. It is considered an analog of acetic acid because the three hydrogen atoms of the methyl group have all been replaced by chlorine atoms. With a TCA peel, your skin will look like it has been sunburned. Within 48-72 hours you will start to peel and this will continue for two to five days.

Jessners peels are utilized in corrective skincare to reduce hyperpigmentation such as age spots, even skin tone, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, and treat acne scars. Jessners peel consists of Salicylic Acid, Lactic Acid and Resorcinol. Typically with Jessners, the skin will turn red, and after two or three days the skin will start to peel. It could take up to a week for this process. There are modified Jessner Peels on the market as well, taking out the Resorcinol and replacing it with other ingredients because it is a phenol derivative and raises health questions.

So how is Lira Clinical’s Pure Peel different? This peel is formulated with acetic acid without the 3(tri) chlorine(chlor) molecules, making this peel safer, but still effective. The main difference between these peels is you will notice the results without the downtime that is required by TCA and Jessners. You will still shed skin with cell turnover, however it will be a gentle sloughing of skin compared to a harsh peeling of skin.

Counterindications For This Peel

This peel is not for a first time client, it is recommended to be part of a smart peel series of 3, with two other peel treatments before it to address skin concerns and prep the skin for this peel. In addition to this, post care requirements are also needed.

It is also not recommended for those who are allergic to aspirin, as salicylic acid is a derivative of willow bark and those who are allergic or sensitive to salicylates (such as aspirin) should not use willow bark. Those with a intolerance to salicylates should not be exposed to Acetic Acid as well, an example of such an associated product could be a common antibiotic used to treat infections of the ear canal, Acetic Acid Otic Solution. Cross reactivity can be such cases; those who react to specific food allergens, inhalants or substances can develop an allergy to others. (5)

In concerns to cross reactivity there are also counterindications for those with tree nut allergies. Because of the Mandelic Acid, a derivative of bitter almonds, this is not recommended.

Resources

1. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/31553119/
2. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5724304/
3. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28602514/
4. https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/jocd.13950#:~:text=Phytic%20acid%20is%20a%20milder,and%20exfoliation%20and%20lightening%20properties.
5. https://www.rxlist.com/acetic-acid-side-effects-drug-center.htm
6. https://liraclinical.com/pure-peel-release/